I like wrapping, rolling, packaging food – it brings love and elegance to your table. Here, beetroot leaves make a perfect coating for fish fillets topped with mushroom duxelles. Just excellent!
On the markets of Paris, chanterelles are sold under the name girolles and both are quite different kinds of mushroom. The latter are firm and fleshy with thick stems, almost golden and snow-white on the inside, the former are softer, skinny guys, more on the brownish side and clearly less classy. A nice pan of girolles counts among the great pleasures of this late summer/early fall season. I used a chunk of the excellent pancetta I drove home from Italy to spice up […]
Asparagus makes an excellent salad, the white or green stalks are great when pan-fried or grilled, steaming would be a good idea – but I cook them à l’anglaise, as the French say when they mean: in water. It’s fast food but it’s great.
Cooking may be fun most of the time – but when you really go for it, it turns into hard labour. That is certainly true for the classic French dish called tourte, a bourgeois marvel of culinary decadence which basically combines two elaborate dishes into one.
A home-made terrine makes the pride of each amateur chef. A poor man’s feast in former times, it has turned into an almost ceremonial dish nowadays. Here are some basic rules for how to do it at home.
The street markets in Paris will ruin me sooner or later, financially. But this morning, I couldn’t resist to a perfect daurade that I turned into a simple and noble French dish.
I often think about how privileged France as a culinary country is. The two oceans alone – the Mediterranean to the South, the Atlantic to the West – are an endless source for excellent ingredients. I just prepared some excellent palourdes, hard clams.